My Favorite 6 French Palaces and Castles

Hank Schrader, USMA '71, Europe Destination & Europe River Cruise Expert

Anne Schrader, Certified Travel Counselor & Certified Luxury Cruise Specialist

www.dreamdestinations.com

The 14 of July is Bastille Day in France. It is the National Day of France and commemorates the Storming of the Bastille (a prison garrison which held political prisoners held on arbitrary royal indictments) on 14 July 1789 during the French Revolution and one year later the unity of the French nation in a festival that continues today.

This was a history changing day, so let’s learn together why today we get to visit many of my favorite palaces and castles, since the French overthrew their royal rulers, ultimately making their palaces open for us to visit. Their lifestyle in their palatial, over-the-top residences is almost unimaginable to us today, as it was during royal rule. I plan to start with these fairy-tale residences--3 palaces and then 3 forts.

Versailles

This is the palace that every King wanted—opulent, innovative rooms like the stunning Hall of Mirrors, gardens, statues, and fountains made of gold—there never has been a palace that displayed the wealth and power of the royals like Versailles. The palace was abandoned by the royal family in 1789.

*Outside the entrance to the palace. This is a good picture capturing the immense size of Versailles*

The Latona fountain in the foreground, honored Lontona, the mother of Apollo and Diane, who after being insulted by the peasants of Lycia, turned them into frogs. This picture is also a great view of the statues lining the walkways. in the background at the very top of the picture, is the artificial lake named Piece d’eau.

*Part of the massive gardens of Versailles*

*Part of the manicured gardens of Versailles*

*Statue of Louis XIV near the front gates of the palace*

It is hard to grasp how large and extravagant this palace is. It has 2,143 windows, 1,252 fireplaces, 67 staircases and 5 chapels. The gardens and fountains are exceptional—there are over 400 sculptures (one source said it is the largest open air sculpture museum in the world) and 1400 fountains.

This is the holding basin reservoir and is the supply of water for some of the fountains in Versailles. 2 water jets sent water high in the air so it could be easily seen from the palace. This bronze sculpture is called Nymph and child.

Sometimes, as many as 5,000 people were residing in the palace. It deserves a full day and is a relatively easy day trip from Paris, France.

The Apotheosis of Hercules ceiling painting in Versailles. It depicts the gods and goddesses of Olympus gathered together honoring Hercules after he finished his labors and was raised to the level of a god. There are over 140 figures in this ceiling painting. Apotheosis means the elevation of someone to divine status.

Versailles is the symbol of the absolute monarch–home to Louie XIV–the Sun King. Every morning when this guy woke up, several nobles surrounded him to wish him good morning–they waited for their king to wake up! Power and influence among the nobles depended upon favor of the King and most would do anything to get a higher position.

Tours of Versailles start with the Ambassador’s Staircase, then touring the King’s state apartments, the Queen’s apartments, and the chapel. Then most enjoy the extensive gardens.

*The staircases in the gardens of Versailles*

*Hercules Lounge. The painting is Rebecca at the Well*

*The painting is Meal in the House of Simon the Pharisee*

*This is a photo of the Venus Drawing Room. The statue is of Louis XIV dressed as a Roman Emperor*

*Abundance Drawing Room Cieling Painting Versailles. The title is the Figure of Royal Magnificence, Immortality and Progress in the Fine Arts*

*Painting by Rousseau in the Venus Salon. It is called the Perspective of the Gardens*

*Council Chambers in the Palace of Versailles. In this room, the King would meet with his counselors and sometimes, with other subjects during audience time.*

My favorite room is the Hall of Mirrors. It is 250 feet long, with 17 windows and has stunning garden views. There are 17 arched mirrors combined with 24 candelabras; busts of Roman Emperors; along with painted ceilings telling the story of the Sun King’s battle victories. It was often filled with noble ladies in silk gowns, and men in wigs and fine clothes who loved to look at themselves in the mirrors.

*Chandilier and ceiling painting in the Hall of Morriors*

This is the room where the Treaty of Versailles was signed that ended World War I. This was symbolic location because in 1870 and 1871, Versailles was occupied by the German Army and William I of Prussia was crowned Emperor of Germany.

Chateaux Chenonceau—a Woman’s Palace

Built over the Cher River, this is an impressive chateau that I intuitively knew was going to be a special visit. From the entrance to this historic site, it is about a 15-minute walk to the chateaux through some wonderful gardens, a cool duck pond and a carriage house with splendid examples of horse drawn transportation and farming carts of the era. Here are some of our photos:

***Chateau de Chenonceau is built over the Cher River***

The first views of the palace, it is just stunning—it is built over the river and looks like a fairy tale castle. As you approach the palace, the forecourt has the Marques Tower, the old keep of the fortified castle that was demolished as the new chateau was built. The main door is made of wood and wonderfully painted. Here are 2 photos:

The first room we saw was the Guard Room. Here soldiers we ready to protect the royal family as needed. The huge fireplace was delightful on the chilly day we visited, and the Flemish tapestries highlighted some of the past events of this Chateaux.

The next room was the impressive Chapel. It was decorated for the Christmas season. All here is original to the 1500s except the stained-glass windows that were added in 1954. Here is a photo:

We next visited Diane De Poitier’s Bedroom, the Green Study, and the Library. Diane De Poitier is an interesting woman—she was the mistress of King Henry II and he gave her the palace in 1547. When Henry died as a result of a jousting tournament accident in 1559, Henry’s wife, Catherine de Medici’s, quickly made sure Diane was no longer welcome and she took control of the Chateaux.

My favorite room was the 200-foot-long Gallery. It instantly reminded me of the Hall of Mirrors in Versailles except with 18 windows instead of mirrors. The Gallery is actually the bridge over the river Cher. The dazzling chandeliers and tufa and slate floor of black and white tiles is stunning. It would be easy to imagine a wonderful evening ball here—there would be plenty of room to dance and socialize and this was exactly how this area was used by the royals for lavish parties.

There are several bedrooms on the second floor. They include the 5 Queen’s Bedroom, Catherine de Medici’s Bedroom, Cesar of Vendome’s Bedroom, and Gabrielle D’Estrees” Bedroom.

On the third floor is the black bedroom. It is the mourning retreat of Louise who lived here after the assassination of her husband King Henri III.

My research of Chenonceau reveals that this is the third most popular chateau in all of France behind Versailles and Fontainebleau. It is well worth a visit.

Chambord—a Man’s Palace

One of the largest Chateaus in all France, Chambord has 440 rooms and 365 fireplaces. It was created as a hunting lodge and to impress visitors. On first sight, it does just that—this place is massive. 80 of the rooms are on display. This is a notable example of French Renaissance architecture. There are 4 main areas of interest of this palace.

We entered and went up the double-helix staircase, the first of the must see in the chateau. It was designed so users could pass without seeing each other since there are two flights of stairs. It is rumored to be inspired by Leonardo De La Vince and some say it was designed so the King’s mistress and the queen could pass without having to meet.

The second area of great interest is the furnished apartments of the first floor. These are lavishly decorated and have furniture fitting for a king (although they are recreations—most of the original furnishings were looted during the French Revolution).

*Some of the outer building and the vast hunting grounds*

The third area is the keeps—the vaulted rooms of the second floor. The symbol of the king was the salamander and there are many carved into the walls and ceilings.

The fourth area is the terraces. The sweeping views, the turrets, the walkways are really special. In the center of the terraces is the lantern tower crowned with the fleur-de-lis.

The gardens are beautiful. The surrounding wooded areas were ideal for hunting and still are used today for that purpose—it is Europe’s largest enclosed forest park.

***The Gardens viewed from the terraces***

This massive palace does impress—Francois I, the absolute monarch, invited the most powerful king of his day, Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor, to visit and he accomplished his mission to prove his power and wealth. A visit here will help you understand what power and wealth can build.

Mont Saint-Michel

The Abbey-Fortress, about a half a mile off the coast of Normandy, dates back to the 8th century. It is located on a tidal island and has a 1000-year history. It was once a famous center of learning, noted for scholarly work and especially for the artistry of the Abbey Monks for their excellent manuscript illustrations.

*The tidal area of the sea around Mont St. Michel*

It is just a stunning location. Part fort (to protect from the English invaders in the endless cross English Channel conflicts), an important pilgrimage site, sometimes a prison, and a center for learning, not only is it fairy-tale like in appearance, but it is also an important site in the history of France.

Construction of the site is said to be based on a vision to Bishop Avranches from the Archangel Michael requiring him to build a church on the island in the sea in the 8th century. In 966, the French kings and dukes of Normandy, allowed the construction of the Benedictine abbey on the island. St. Michael was the patron saint of the French kings, and this helped make it favorite places for royalty to visit.

*This wall sculpture depicts the visitation of the Archangel Michael to Bishop Aubert*

Part of the mystery of Mont St. Michel is the epic tides, which cover 8 miles in each tidal cycle. Adding to the speedy tides, quicksand is another peril to access this small island fortress. Combine these obstacles with fog that often occurs here, it is easy to see why this palace developed mystical place in the minds of the population and the pilgrims who were trying to get closer to God during their journeys. Adding to this legendary status, in the 15th century when the English conquered Normandy, they were never able to conquer Mont St. Michel during the Hundred Years War, so it is easy to understand the importance the French place on the island abbey-fortress.

*This is a good picture showing part of the tidal area of the sea around the island Abbey* *and some of the defensive positions*

*This is a good view of some of the defensive fortifications surrounding Mont St. Michel*

It is a steep hike up to the Abbey, which takes about 20 minutes. Touring the Abbey takes about an hour to an hour and a half. There are no English explanations in the Abbey.

*The crowded pathway up to the Abbey with its shops and restaurants*

In the Abbey, there is a church, the cloisters (an outdoor area enclosed with columns), the Guest’s Hall, the Ossuary and the Scriptorium Hall where the monks worked illustrating manuscripts.

*Scriptorium Hall were the monks illustrated manuscripts*

*The cloister has a garden surrounded by 137 pink granite columns*

This treadwheel crane was installed when Mont. St. Michel was a prison and was used to bring supplies up to the prisoners. It was powered by some of the prisoners inside the large wheel, who walked to rotate it.

Carcassonne

This huge fortress in the south of France is a like no other fortress in France--It is the largest walled city in Europe. It was built on a trade route that was used between the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. It is a fortified city with 52 towers and barbicans and has 2 defensive walls. There are over 2 miles of walls, and it has 4 city gates oriented to the north, east, south and west.

Why did cities put up walls around their city? Simple–a defensive wall is a fortification used to protect a city or settlement from potential aggressors. In ancient to modern times, they were used to enclose settlements.

Almost every town in medieval times that could build defensive walls did so for protection, as medieval cities were often attacked. Since the pre-Roman period, a fortified settlement has existed on the hill where Carcassonne now stands.

In its present form it is an outstanding example of a medieval fortified town, with its massive defenses encircling the castle and the surrounding buildings, its streets, and its fine Gothic cathedral.

The story of Lady Carcas is one of my favorite tales about Europe—it tells how Carcassonne got its name. According to the legend, the city was under siege by Charlemagne’s troops,and during the fighting, the king was killed defending the city. His wife, Lady Carcas became the leader of the town. The siege lasted for 5 years and as the city was running out of food, Lady Carcas had one of their last pigs thrown over the walls from one of the towers. The soldiers left, believing the city had enough food to outlast them.

*Narbonnaise Gate Carcassonne* is *the main gate to the city*

Lady Carcas had the city bells in celebration as the soldiers left and one exclaimed “Carcas Sonne” which translates to Carcas rings! Not missing this legend as it became a tourist destination, you can see her sculpture on one of the town’s walls.

*Another view of the main gate entrance*

Some of the best sights in this fortified city include the Château Cometal (the Count’s Castle), the cathedral and walking the ramparts for views of the countryside and the Aude River.

Part of the Chateau Comtal. It was built on the steepest part of the hill, helping in the defense of the castle. It has 9 towers. These towers defend the bridge over the moat that was the entrace to the castle.

Carcassonne is crowded with tourists during the day, but is a delight at night, so a visit here is best when you stay longer than a daytime visit.

Roquetaillade

You may not know much about this castle, but it is on the list of Historic Monuments of France that was established in 1840. Roquetaillade, near Bordeaux, was a wooden castle originally built by Charlemagne, but only some ruins remain. In 1306, a new castle was built with a square design, which featured 6 towers and a central keep (the main tower).

*This is a good picture showing the keep tower in the center of the Roquetaillade Castle*

*This is part of a clever escape route from the castle. While we were inside the castle, our guide pulled a lever mechanism and the red door completed this bridge, to become an escape route.*

*Another Interior picture of the castle*

Roquetaillade in French means carved out of rock and comes from the caves under the castle complex. It has been owned by the same family since 1306.

After the Middle Ages, there was not any military need for the castle and the castle was modified and updated to make it a more comfortable residence. The insides are full of decorative art, thanks to the transformation made by the famous architect Viollet le Duc, and it is the beginning of the Art Nouveau style in France.

Perhaps this is why I like this castle so much, thinking it would be stark due to its outward appearance, it was a beautiful castle with rich interiors. Along with the splendid interiors, my favorite was the kitchen area and the gleaming copper cookware.

Sadly, no pictures are allowed inside of the castle.

Most folks visit this castle on a river cruise from Bordeaux and I would recommend you visit here.

Our Final Thoughts

Perhaps you have other palaces and castle to add to my favorites list—there are endless choices. There is just something about these 6, in my opinion, which make them special and a delight to visit. We hope you enjoyed this report.

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ANNE has earned a degree from the University of Houston in Hotel and Restaurant Management. Serving as the President of Visit Dream Destinations, LLC, since 2016, she is uniquely experienced professional travel advisor with over 26 years’ experience in the travel industry. Among her numerous certifications, she is a Certified Travel Counselor (CTC) by the Travel Institute, considered the gold standard in travel agent certification and she is also an Accredited Cruise Counselor (ACC) by the Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA), as well Luxury Cruise Specialist also from CLIA. Having traveled often to Europe since 1989, she has expanded on her certification as a Destination Specialist in Western Europe (DS) with extensive first-hand experience in luxury vacations. She holds numerous other specialty designations from individual vendors. An expert photographer, she delights in capturing the true essence of destinations to share with all.

HANK is a certified Western European Destination Specialist (DS) who has been traveling to Europe for 52 years. He is also an Accredited Cruise Counselor (ACC), conferred by the Cruise Line International Association (CLIA). This recognized expert in cruise and leisure travel is a retired Army Officer, and taught World Geography for 8 years. He is a `71 graduate of West Point and has earned 2 master’s degrees. His other Certifications:

AmaWaterways River Cruise Specialist
Viking River Cruise Specialist
Scenic River Cruise Specialist
Emerald Waterways Specialist
Avalon Waterways Specialist
Brit Agent

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