Train Travel in Europe
Hank Schrader, USMA '71, Europe Destination & Europe River Cruise Expert
We always find one of the most fun ways to travel in Europe is by train.
Sometimes you can’t realize how scenic train travel is—please check these pictures out:
Train travel can get you to a new location efficiently and usually for less cost than a flight, or to get from the airport to your base of operations (a great example is the Heathrow Express from the airport to London’s Paddington Station) or can be used very smartly for day trips to outlying regions near your base city—we call it spoke travel. Some great spoke cities are London, Paris, and Munich as examples, since there are great sights easily reachable by train without staying overnight and they allow you to expand your explorations in comfort and generally hassle free, especially if you don’t mind a small walk from the station to the site, but even then, there may be a convenient link by tram or other method to cut out long walks in the larger cities.
From London, for example, we have taken 4 spoke trips. They were to Hampton Court and Windsor Castle from Waterloo Station, a long one to Bath from Paddington Station (about 1 hour and 30 minutes), and even a long trip to York from King’s Cross Station (about 2 hours ride). Just look at these pictures to see how train travel enhanced our stay in London:
As with all travel after COVID-19, things will change—local authorities will require different protocols, so be prepared for this and adjust as needed—we anticipate rules and procedures will be altered for train travel.
Not all locations are easily accessible by train in Europe, but most are—and it is often the most relaxing way to get to new destinations.
So, let’s explore together and learn about train travel in Europe!
Buying Tickets
Buying your tickets can be complicated. An easy solution sometimes is a rail pass, but they may or may not be a good deal, depending upon how many train trips you need for your vacation. We often use a combination of both types of tickets.
Generally, you cannot purchase train tickets until 90 days before your trip. This often causes great concern for many travelers, but since many trains really don’t change much in Europe, we usually can guess the exact train.
Sometimes your tickets come with extras—boat/bus included trips and other discounts. Sometimes they substitute a bus on your route.
We can really help here—it often takes a professional like us to help to get the best deal and avoid restrictions that can lead to problems.
Station Skills and Tips
1. Before you arrive at the station put your train info on a small notecard or piece of paper. Listing the train number, car (coach) number, seat numbers, departure time and arrival time at the destination along with the correct station, will make your train travel much easier. It is amazing how many times we look at this piece of paper. It also safeguards our train tickets—we are not fumbling around trying to get the right info. If the station is close by, we often make a recon visit to help us familiarize with the station layout prior to our scheduled trip.
2. Know How Many Train Changes You will need to Complete Your Trip to the New Destination. This is critical—especially the time to get to the new train. Sometimes, the track will be right next to your arrival track; often it requires a change to another track. We have often had to run to make it—another reason to travel light. Make sure you have each leg documented, including the correct train station; track #; departure and arrival time; connection time; train car number; and seat number
3. Make sure you are at the right Station. Many European cities have more than one station (Brussels has 3, for example) and if you are making connections, a wrong station can be a real hassle or cause a missed connection.
4. Train Stations in Europe have a lot of things you might need for your trip. Many have information booths, food, drinks, restaurants, shopping, room-finding services, money-changing stores, lockers to store your luggage (sometimes), waiting rooms (sometimes), and convenient bus, local light rail and subway connections.
Restrooms are available but may cost some small charge (usually coins) to use.
We almost always get a picnic type lunch or least a couple of beers or a bottle of wine. It often is better tasting and less expensive than the on board food. With all the conveniences, also comes the occasional thief or beggar scam. Watch your valuables and luggage and keep your money in a money belt or zippered pocket.
5. At the Station, find the departure board to get on the right track. Most station have a big flip board or electronic board that has 10 or so departure and arrivals. The boards are organized by departure and arrival times. Find your train number and time on the departure board then wait until they post the track number. Remember Europeans use the 24 hour clock—1300 is 1:00 PM. Also the city name will often not match your English names—Prague is Praha, for instance. It can be easy to get confused—there may be identical times and similar trains—make sure you have the right one. Long distance trains are easier—often there will be this big rush to the correct platform once the track number is posted. Most long distance, high speed trains require an advance reservation and a conductor will check your ticket prior to boarding.
6. Know the configuration of your train prior to getting aboard if possible. Many stations have the exact composition of your train on a display board. These are on the platform where the train will arrive. Locating this diagram can make boarding much easier. Each platform often has letters overhead to indicate where you should stand when the train arrives. Train cars are usually marked with a “1” for First-Class and a “2” for Second-Class and the car number.
Even if you have a First Class ticket, some local trains only have Second Class train coaches. If your coach is at the diagram for letter A for example, your coach should stop somewhere near that letter. In addition, each track will usually have a sign showing the next train arrival with a train number and other information so you can be pretty sure you are on the correct train platform. Trust the diagram and local conductors—almost all speak some English. Even if they are not sure, their guess is better than yours—they ride these trains every day. It is not uncommon for cars to be out of number sequence and a few years ago, I ran after a train car while Anne waited at the right spot—she was right, of course!
7. Tracks and Platforms can change. I missed a train to Berlin in 2008 once by sitting on the wrong platform—it had changed and I was too busy talking to my friend (an example, if I was on track 4 and the sign now says “gleis 4, auf gleis 12”, my track has changed from 4 to 12 “auf” in German translates to now). Luckily, there was another train one hour later. Even if you have scoped things out beforehand, if everyone suddenly starts running to another platform or track, just start asking—someone will tell you about the new track. With the recent COVID-19 situation in Europe, we guess some trains will change platforms or have unannounced train changes as travel returns to normal. In the past at every border, the crew often changed and there was a passport check but that has now changed. There will be more checks nowadays with the recent pandemic problems but overall the hassles should be minimal.
8. Trains only stop for 2 to 5 minutes at most stops unless you are the first departure point on the route. If you have not been able to locate your reserved coach just get on the train. Do not waste time getting on; clear the platform as quickly as possible. Even if you are totally confused, just get on the right train and then get to the proper car and seat.
9. Know if you are required to validate your tickets. This will be often required in some form for individual tickets. There is often a machine device that will date stamp your tickets. For rail passes, you usually will have to visit the train station office to initiate your rail pass by the officials. Rail passes also require your passport to show the officials and conductors. Then, you will have to record, each leg of the trip in your rail ticket documents. Do not ignore either of these requirements—you can receive a hefty fine for non-compliance.
On the Train
1. Try to limit the amount of luggage you carry if you are using a lot of trains in Europe. We have seen people carry an amazing lot of stuff and have been guilty of this way too often ourselves. There are 2 problems here—many platforms require you to walk down steps, go under or over train tracks and back up or down lugging all your stuff. Often there is not a lift or escalator. Heavy bags can be a real problem. The second problem is putting your stuff away while on the train. Most trains have overhead racks that will hold 21 inch luggage but larger bags can be a problem. Sometimes there are luggage storage areas in your train car—sometimes not. Also there are folks in larger stations who will try to help you for a tip—you often think they are just helpful fellow travelers—be careful, train stations offer great opportunities for less honest folks looking for an easy chance to steal something. We constantly count luggage and check even if it is in the luggage area of our car. When in doubt, we carry a small chain & lock to make sure our items are secure.
2. Train seats are not for your luggage. We watched an American on a very crowded train take up several seats guarding their luggage and being very confrontational to others. Store you luggage properly—do not take someone’s seat on a crowded train. If you are obstructing a seat, be prepared to move your luggage if a new passenger arrives.
3. Do not assume just because you got on the right train all the cars are going where you want to go. Sometimes a train will split apart at some stations and part of the train will head to a different place than you want to go. Always ask the conductor if you are in the right car, right seat and right section of the train—especially if you do not have a reserved seat.
4. Even if you have a reserved seat, someone may be using it. Just politely show your ticket and try and work it out. Most often it is a family with young kids or some other good reason. Sometimes it is a second class ticketed person try to score a free upgrade or just an honest mistake—right seat, wrong car (just remember you might be wrong, as has happened to us). Keep your cool and if it is a real problem, let the conductor work it out.
5. Most announcements on the train are in English following another European language first, especially on long distance trains. We have learned to know about how long the trip is and get up early (about 10-15 minutes or so) so we can get off quickly, especially if we have 23-25 inch suitcases. If the trip announcements seem to get a gasp or two from other riders, you can probably guess the train has been delayed. Just ask—most folks who ride the trains speak a little English or are willing to help. Also you often will not know which side to exit the train, or in some smaller stations, especially in England, you may have to walk forward to others cars to disembark if the train is longer than the platform. In Munich, if you get off the wrong side of the train on the U-Bahn, sometimes you have to wait for another train to cross over the train to the center platform and get your proper exit—don’t laugh, it has happened to us!
6. At your seat, be considerate. First, no feet on the opposite seats, clean up after food and drink. We always bring disinfecting wipes to clean the common area, arm rests, etc. Please observe posted signs in the cars—for example, quiet cars that prohibit cell phone conversations and handicap spaces and seats.
7. Food Service varies on trains. First Class, longer haul routes, may include a meal served at your seat at no extra charge. There may be a cart service, where you can buy meals, snacks and beverages. There may be a dining car, where you can go to buy what you might need. Most small trains do not have food options. Some take credit cards, others require cash.
Problems
1. Screaming at railroad employees is rude and wrong. We watched an American scream at a reservation person because the person did not speak English well. Finally a kind man who spoke English and French stepped in and helped resolve the problem. Screaming and rudeness just makes the situation worse. Our experience is that most railroad folks really try to help and resolve problems or get you a better train or seat or car. Be patient, use short clear words, no slang, and trust the reservation representatives. When you enter the reservation and ticketing area, usually there is a number system, so get a ticket and wait your turn (now serving #). If there is a representative at the entrance area, ask what the system is and if you have a short time to make a connection, let them know. Always ask before standing in line. Sometimes at ticketing offices in the stations you may have to wait up to a half an hour to get your problem resolved—so many travel by train, even in large stations the back log can be significant. If you have a rail pass or first class ticket, sometimes you can skip the waiting lines and get served faster.
2. Train Strikes do happen. We were in Brugge once ready to leave on a Monday and we found out while enjoying a small breakfast that all local trains in Belgium were on scheduled strikes on Mondays thru the month of December in protest of wages. All the locals knew, but we sure did not. We wound up splitting a cab to Brussels with another couple—an extra 80 Euros in cash we had not planned for. Our lesson learned—ask the hotel at check in if there are any problems for departure transportation.
Long Distance Train Travel
1. Overnight trains. We have had some really good results and some horrible experiences. First rule for us—get a private compartment.
In 1990, during the world cup, we wound up in a sleeper for 4 with 2 guys from Argentina. We were all worried, but since I spoke Spanish, we worked it out. It was so hot and if you opened the windows, a passing train would shatter any possibility of sleep. We wound up the next day with heat rashes and were so exhausted, we just slept most of the next day.
On a trip in 2014 from Grenada to Barcelona in a 2 person compartment, it was very good—we got some sleep and a good meal.
And another good trip was from Amsterdam to Munich that saved us a cost of a hotel room—we arrived rested and ready to explore Munich after dropping our luggage of at our hotel. We also discovered a hidden gem in the Amsterdam Station—not only stunning decor but great food—the perfect send off for our overnight train ride!
Our advice --spend a little more and arrive rested, so you can save a hotel room cost yet not be so tired the benefit of the overnight ride is not wasted.
2. Expect More Overnight Travel Routes. We know these will expand, as many are questioning the value of short flights in Europe (energy conservation) and the relaxation factor of train travel. Also, the expansion of high speed routes reduces travel times.
My Final Thoughts
What a great adventure—train travel—just another reason we love the Old World of Europe so much! We hope you enjoyed these tips and pictures as much as we enjoyed sharing them with you.
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HANK is a certified Western European Destination Specialist (DS) who has been traveling to Europe for 49 years. He is also an Accredited Cruise Counselor (ACC), conferred by the Cruise Line International Association (CLIA). This recognized expert in cruise and leisure travel is a retired Army Officer, and taught World Geography for 8 years. He is a `71 graduate of West Point and has earned 2 master’s degrees. His other Certifications:
AmaWaterways River Cruise Specialist
Viking River Cruise Specialist
Scenic River Cruise Specialist
Emerald Waterways Specialist
Avalon Waterways Specialist
Brit Agent