Vienne, France—an Often Missed Gem
Hank Schrader, USMA '71, Europe Destination & Europe River Cruise Expert
We always find one of the most fascinating aspects of Europe is a new discovery.
Vienne, France falls into this category—few Americans know much about this town and river cruise port on the Rhône unless they have sailed the Rhône. It is at the confluence of the Rhône and Gère Rivers.
Just, 35 miles south of Lyon, it would be easy to overlook.
Vienne has great Roman ruins, cobbled lanes, an historic abbey, a castle and some of the best food experiences in France—perhaps, you are now getting more interested.
We have visited Vienne 3 times on a Rhône River Cruise (2013, 2014 and 2016 all on AmaWaterways) and before our 3rd Rhône cruise we spent 2 delightful days in Vienne pre-cruise.
We were inspired by a great looking restaurant in Vienne, L’e Table de Bouchers (The Table of Butchers in English) and wanted to try it out. Our instincts were correct and it opened us up to this gem overlooked by most pre-cruise visitors who might choose Lyon over Vienne.
So, let’s explore together and learn about Vienne—you won’t be disappointed!
Mount Pipet
On river cruises, some lines take you up to one of the best places to see the entire city on Mount Pipet, the highest hill in the town area. They use a tourist train and the short ride up the steep hill is a worthwhile trip for great views.
Wandering the City
The winding lanes and streets are just made for walking. Why not take a stroll with us with these pictures?
Roman Ruins
Julius Caesar was the founder of the Roman colony in 47 BC (or correctly now BCE—Before the Common Era). It became a major trade and commerce center in the Roman Empire.
The best ruin is not really a ruin—it is the wonderfully preserved Temple of Augustus and Livia. It was built around 1 or 2 in the Common Era. This is one of the two best preserved Roman temples in France. Only priests were allowed inside—other citizens gathered in the Forum for religious ceremonies.
There is a very good display of Roman artifacts in the indoor museum.
Looking down from Mount Pipet, the amphitheater shows the grander of this once thriving city—it was said to be only slightly less important than Trier. The amphitheater could seat over 14,000 and is used today for concerts.
Archeological Garden of Cebete at first may not look that impressive but was an important part of Roman life. There are foundations of several buildings, archways decorated with carved limestone figures and opening up to a forum (square)
The Pyramid of the Roman Hippodrome is another interesting past relic. A hippodrome is a chariot race track.
This picture shows what remains of the hippodrome—it takes a lot of imagination to see it as the center of a race track, as buildings and streets have covered the old race track area and only the center pyramid stands today. This pyramid like structure was the center of the chariot race track.
4 teams would compete—the winner was the first to complete 7 laps. The judges were in the Pyramid. It is built to resemble an Egyptian Obelisk.
Saint-André le Bas Abbey
The abbey was probably constructed in the 600’s. It was a men’s monastery. Starting in the 9th century, it was the palace chapel of the Kings of Burgundy. In the 10th century, the abbey adopted the Benedictine rules and practices.
It was one of the most important monasteries in the diocese of Vienne during the Middle Ages. As time passed, it fell into disrepair and importance. It really is an interesting structure of what remains of this once important abbey. Here are some photos
Medieval Castle Chateau de la Batie
Built on another high point of Vienne, the ruins of this castle were built on old Roman fortifications on Mount Solomon. In 1225, the castle was the residence of the archbishops of Vienne until the mid-14th century. The only thing that remains today is the ruins of this once proud castle residence.
On the Right Bank of the Rhône
On the right bank, a large defensive tower caught my interest. It is the Tour de Valois. Nearly 30 meters high, it was once part of the defenses of Sainte Colombre (the name of the city on the right bank). It is in ruins today and is not available to visit. Here are 2 good photos of this impressive tower:
Our Hotel—true Luxury
We stayed at La Pyramide Hotel in Vienne, France, a 4-star Relais & Châteaux hotel and it has a two-Michelin star gastronomic restaurant—I guess you can figure out why foodies like us wanted to experience both.
Room 103 was lovely—here are some photos.
Great Food
We had 3 outstanding meals here!
First, the restaurant that inspired our stay, L’e Table de Bouchers. One look at the menu after enjoying the wonderful building design, and I was hooked! Here are some pictures of what inspired us:
We ate there on the second night of our stay. The meals of the day specials that are quite common in Europe not only was a great value but the entire meal lived up to our expectations and the portions were huge! Please imagine yourself eating here.
Our First Day Meals
Prior to our wonderful evening meal, we spent a great time drinking a bottle of wine along with some cheese and meats platter. I can’t begin to tell you how wonderful, relaxing and fun it was. We lingered for a couple of hours, enjoying the slow life that France is so famous for—perhaps one of my most favorite experiences in France. Please savor our experiences through these pictures.
Now for gastronomy that is an epic experience—a true Michelin 2-Star restaurant Patrick Henriroux's restaurant La Pyramide. Instead of describing this unique meal, our pictures should convey what an experience it was for us.
My Final Thoughts
What a great adventure—the town of Vienne, France—just another reason we love the Old World of Europe so much! I think you can see why this town deserves a night or 2 stay for your travels in France! We hope you enjoyed these pictures as much as we enjoyed seeing them during our travels.
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HANK is a certified Western European Destination Specialist (DS) who has been traveling to Europe for 49 years. He is also an Accredited Cruise Counselor (ACC), conferred by the Cruise Line International Association (CLIA). This recognized expert in cruise and leisure travel is a retired Army Officer, and taught World Geography for 8 years. He is a `71 graduate of West Point and has earned 2 master’s degrees. His other Certifications:
AmaWaterways River Cruise Specialist
Viking River Cruise Specialist
Scenic River Cruise Specialist
Emerald Waterways Specialist
Avalon Waterways Specialist
Brit Agent
