Moselle River Cruise Port

Trier, Germany

Trier, Germany

Hank Schrader, USMA '71, Europe Destination & Europe River Cruise Expert

Anne Schrader, Certified Travel Counselor & Certified Luxury Cruise Specialist

www.dreamdestinations.com

We first visited Trier in 1989. It was impressive then and we wanted to go back and spend a couple days to see the oldest city in Germany in 2022.

So, let’s explore together and learn about Trier.

Overview and City History

The city of Trier was founded by Augustus in 16 BCE (before the common era) as the first supply base for the Roman Army of the Rhine.  It grew in importance and by 268 AD it was the capital of Gaul.  In 306, Trier became the capital of the Western Roman Europe and the Emperor Constantine resided in this city.

Among the impressive buildings and structures built during his residence were the Imperial Baths, the audience Hall of the Basilica and two large Christian churches.  Later these two churches became the Trier Cathedral and the Church of Our Lady.

By 402, the Rhine Army was withdrawn to protect Rome and Trier was sacked four times between 407 to 435.  The tough times continued and by 480 was under control of the Franks. The once thriving city, with a population of around 80.000 was reduced to about 5.000 during the 100 year period.

During the Frankish time, Trier continued to have up periods followed by down periods. In 882 Trier was sacked by the Vikings

The Trier Bishop’s slowly converted the folks around the town and as a reward for their efforts, in 1257, the archbishops became one of the 7 Electors of the Holy Roman Empire. The city prospered from the honor of being a seat of power in the Holy Roman Empire and Trier became an important trading city again.

From 1618 to 1648, during the Thirty Year’s Religious War , Trier’s population had declined to under 4,000.

In 1688, during the War of Palatine Succession, most of the villages and castles on the Moselle River were destroyed and burned, but King Louis XIV (the Sun King) personally spared Trier from destruction, except for the city walls and left a starving population of about 2,500.

By 1794, the French Revolutionary Army occupied the city, and the Electorate of Trier was finished (the ruling clergy) and never came back.  From 1794 to 1814, Trier was annexed by France.

Trier became part of the Kingdom of Prussia in 1815 after the end of the Napoleonic Wars and became part of the German Empire in 1871.

In 1818, Karl Marx is born in Trier.

Here are best sites in the city:

Porta Nigra

The Porta Nigra (Black Gate), built by the Romans from 160-180 A.D., was the northern most gate of 4 in the walled city of Trier.  It was built at the end of the second century and is 30 meters high and 36 meter wide.  It is the largest Roman gate that has survived of the many fortified gates built by the Romans in Europe. No mortar was used to hold the gate’s sandstone blocks together—they were held together with iron pegs.
The defensive system of Trier was massive—4 main gates like the Porta Negra, 4 miles of walls with 47 towers.

Here is a picture from our 2022 visit. To get a good sense how large this structure is, note how tiny the people seem walking through the gate.

By 1016 the gate was intact but in many parts of this large structure, there was a lot of rubble with the roof gone and other parts not usable or decaying. Archbishop Poppo had the gate repaired and converted it into a church.

The gate’s real name has really been lost in historical records but due to the smoke and soot of hundreds of years, the walls have turned black and has earned the name the Black Gate.

This picture is from our first visit in 1989.

This is part of the old monastery of St. Simeon. Today it is part of the Tourist Information office and the City Museum.

Trier Cathedral

The Trier Cathedral is the oldest in Germany—it has over 1,700 years serving as a church, being first established in 326 AD.  It is combination of architectural styles, as one would expect, for a house of worship that has been used for so many years.  There are elements of Gothic, Baroque and Romanesque styles in this church.

The treasury has many important Christian relics including the Holy Tunic, the robe that Jesus was wearing when he was crucified, and a “holy nail” that was used during the Crucifixion and can be visited.

The Trier Cathedral. Part of the Cathedral dates back to 380 AD, making it the oldest church in Germany.

The Church of Our Lady (Liebfrauenkirche)

Built in the 1200s, this is the oldest Gothic church in Germany. The Liebfrauenkirche still has a Roman foundation, but nothing of the Roman era construction remains above ground.

The Constantine Basilica

The huge single-room hall was the throne room of Constantine the Great.   It is 27 meters wide, 67 meters long and 33 meters high.  This hall was built to express all who might enter—let there be no doubt of the magnificence and power of the emperor Constantine.

This is the Throne Room of Constantine. It is so large that 2 Porta Negra could fit inside.

Inside of the Constantine Basilica.

Market Square

The Hauptmarkt is the largest market square in Trier.  The best part for most folks, beside the Porta Nigra, is the different well-preserved townhouses that line the square.  Among the architectural styles that line the colorful square are Renaissance, Baroque, Classicist and Historicist.

It also has great shopping in an awesome setting.

This photo was taken in 1989. On the right are some of the colorful townhouses. In the distance is the Porta Negra.

This 2022 picture is a good example of how large and ornate the Market Square is in the old town area. You can see the Market Cross and St. Peter’s Fountain in the foreground. The tall spire in the center of this picture St. Gangolf’s Church that was completed in 1509.

Another picture of the Market Square area.

The House of the Three Wise Men was built in 1230. While it is hard to recognize in this picture, since the outside café area hides the first floor and the structure has been modified for commercial use, the actual doorway is on the second level on the right side and was only accessible by a retractable ladder. The nobility liked to have the protection of a tower like fortress home.

The white building is called Steipe and was constructed to entertain visiting dignitaries. The red house is a 17th century baker’s guild house.

St. Peter’s Fountain in the Market Square was built in 1595.

The Market Cross has been standing in the square since 958. The cross is a tribute to the trading rights granted to the city by King Otto the Great.

The Red Tower was built in 1647. It is part of the Electoral Palace and also a bell tower.

The Red Tower

The Rococo Palace of the Electors

This was added to the Constantine Basilica in the late 1700s.  It is considered the best example of Rococo architecture in Germany.  The gardens are quite impressive with wonderful statues.

As one of the 7 electors of the Holy Roman Empire, Trier was a very important city in times past during medieval Europe.

Today, the palace serves as offices for some the government officials and there are only limited tours, if any, inside the structure.

The Pink Rococo Palace and the park grounds. This picture was taken in 1989.

Here is a picture of the palace in 2022. I’m not absolutely sure, but the palace appears to have been repainted since our visit in 1989. I have found several old pictures that show the color of the palace as pink as in our 1989 picture.

The garden area of the Rococo Palace of the Electors.

The fountain in the palace grounds

The Imperial Baths

While the baths were never completed, large sections of the 19-meter walls remain.  This is probably due to the fact that parts of the existing baths were later used to construct the ring wall built to protect Trier. 

The ruins of the Imperial baths.

Another picture of the Imperial Baths

The Trier Museum (Landesmuseum)

This is the best collection of Roman artifacts in Germany.  These finds give us today some very good insights into Roman life of that period.

Among the best displays are the mosaic floors, with the most impressive display is from the Imperial Baths (with 25 square meter charioteer with 4 horses), and excellent quality gold coins (over 2600 are on display) with Constantine’s head on one side of the coin (Trier used to be an Imperial Mint). 

Also notable is the sculpture of the Neumagen wine ship, which is a stone model of a wine ship carved for the tomb of a local wine merchant.

The picture here is from the wonderful Winestube Kesselstatt we found near the cathedral. It is a replica of the actual tomb and not in the museum.

The winestube.

Along the Mosel River there are 2 treadwheel cranes one that dates to 1413 (a Gothic style) and the other much younger one constructed in 1774 (Baroque style).

Since this is the birth place of Karl Marx, here is a photo of a statue of him. Our taxi driver told us it was donated by the Chinese Government.

Our Final Thoughts

Trier is a great city to visit.  We recommend a couple of days or more to see the sites and enjoy this unique place.  We hope you enjoyed this report.

We are travel experts, ocean and river cruise specialists, and Europe destination experts.  We have first-hand knowledge of almost anywhere you want to visit in Europe.  We know our products and the vendors who sell them to you.  We have designed special tours for dozens of clients, led several and will continue to find just the right vacation that will exceed your expectations.

When you are spending your hard-earned money for a vacation, you want an advisor who can match you with the right trip.  You want someone who will understand your expectations and fuel your anticipation (or excitement) to get you the best possible trip experience.  And, you want someone who can help you with the decision making process.  We think we have all these qualities.

Whatever your Dream Destinations are, we are here to help you get the best possible vacation based on what is important to you!  We will provide you high quality, expertly planned travel.  Please give me a call 713-397-0188 (Hank) or email me at hschrader@dreamdestinations.com.  We want to help you:  Savor life…make memories…Visit Dream Destinations!  Your journey begins here!

ANNE has earned a degree from the University of Houston in Hotel and Restaurant Management.  Serving as the President of Visit Dream Destinations, LLC, since 2016, she is uniquely experienced professional travel advisor with over 26 years’ experience in the travel industry.  Among her numerous certifications, she is a Certified Travel Counselor (CTC) by the Travel Institute, considered the gold standard in travel agent certification and she is also an Accredited Cruise Counselor (ACC) by the Cruise Lines International Association (CLIA), as well Luxury Cruise Specialist also from CLIA.  Having traveled often to Europe since 1989, she has expanded on her certification as a Destination Specialist in Western Europe (DS) with extensive first-hand experience in luxury vacations.  She holds numerous other specialty designations from individual vendors.  An expert photographer, she delights in capturing the true essence of destinations to share with all.

HANK is a certified Western European Destination Specialist (DS) who has been traveling to Europe for 50 years.  He is also an Accredited Cruise Counselor (ACC), conferred by the Cruise Line International Association (CLIA).  This recognized expert in cruise and leisure travel is a retired Army Officer, and taught World Geography for 8 years.  He is a `71 graduate of West Point and has earned 2 master’s degrees.   His other Certifications:

  • AmaWaterways River Cruise Specialist

  • Viking River Cruise Specialist

  • Scenic River Cruise Specialist

  • Emerald Waterways Specialist

  • Avalon Waterways Specialist

  • Brit Agent

5 Great Ports on the Moselle River

5 Great Ports on the Moselle River

Hank Schrader, USMA '71, Europe Destination & Europe River Cruise Expert

www.dreamdestinations.com

Perhaps there is no more scenic river in Europe than the Moselle.

It is a winding river that starts in the Vosages Mountains in France, flows through France, Luxembourg and Germany and ultimately ends up in the Rhine River.  The river is about 340 miles long, but river cruising happens on about 150 mile stretch from Trier/Luxembourg to Koblenz in Germany.

It is historic (the Romans), famous for Riesling wines, and the steep vineyards make sailing here a joy.

So, let’s explore together and learn about these Moselle 5 ports (we will sail from south to north) and we will also explore 2 other places—Burg Eltz and Luxembourg City—you won’t be disappointed!

Trier was an old Roman outpost which was first settled by the Roman in 17 BC.  It is the oldest city in Germany, and is near the Luxembourg border—in fact, one side of the Moselle River is Trier, Germany and the opposite other side is the tiny country of Luxembourg.  Anne & I first visited here in 1989.

Important Roman sights include the Roman Baths, an amphitheater, Basilica of Constantine (it was the throne room of Emperor Constantine), and the huge city gate, the Porta Nigra gate, that dates back to 180 A.D.  It has earned the nickname of “the Rome of the North.”

Porta Nigra (Black Gate) in Trier is the largest Roman Gate north of the Alps.

Porta Nigra (Black Gate) in Trier is the largest Roman Gate north of the Alps.

Other sights are the Trier Cathedral (it is the oldest Cathedral in Germany) and the ornate Trier Electoral Palace and gardens. 

Trier Electoral Palace and gardens

Trier Electoral Palace and gardens

Also worth a visit is the old town area of the main market (Hauptmarkt)—besides people watching, the backdrop is the Porta Nigra and the large square is lined with a variety of architectural styles and is quite colorful. 

Main Square In Trier

Main Square In Trier

Luxembourg City, in the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, is not really a port, but so close to Moselle River that it becomes a destination to visit while in this area.  As with most historic cities, it is the old town and its fortifications that make this an interesting place to visit.  Known as the “Gibraltar of the North” due to high rocky bluff (called the Bock Promontory) that rises from the river gorges carved out by the Alzette and Petrusse Rivers, it is a strategic point that could be easily defended.  Little of the fortifications remain but it still is spectacular, especially if you walk the Chemin de la Corniche. 

Some of the defensive walls of Luxembourg City.  The Alzette River is in the foreground.

Some of the defensive walls of Luxembourg City. The Alzette River is in the foreground.

Other interesting sights include the Place d’Armes, the original square of the old town; the Grand Rue, a pedestrian only street with a wide variety of shops; Notre-Dame Cathedral, an impressive Gothic architecture church; the Grand Ducal Palace, originally a town hall, but now a palace for the Grand Duke and their families (sadly only open for tours in July and August); Chemin (Walls) de la Corniche, the walking path often called “the most beautiful balcony in Europe”; the Bock casemates defensive sections that remain and one of the fascinating bridges leading to the old village area.

The walk way on top of the defensive walls.

The walk way on top of the defensive walls.

For many who are interested in World War II, a must visit to this area is the American Cemetery in Luxembourg.  Along with the 5.075 buried here and the 371 reported missing, it is the burial site of LTG Patton.  Anne and I visited this sacred ground in 1989 while I was still on active duty.  It truly was emotional for me—I was so grateful and humbled for these soldiers.  Many of these soldiers lost their lives in the Battle of the Bulge and the subsequent drive to the Rhine River.  My Dad was part of the Battle of the Bulge and he survived—I am sure knowing this made me respect these dead heroes even more.

American Cemetery in Luxembourg

American Cemetery in Luxembourg

Bernkastel is a wonderful town of around 8000.  It is located about halfway between Cochem and Trier on the Mosel River.  There are many half-timbered buildings, especially around the market square.  Easily seen from market square is St Michael’s church, built in the 14th century that had a dual purpose— it served as a house of worship and its tall bell tower served as a watch tower in the old city ramparts.  

A good picture of market square with the talk St. Michael’s Church dual purpose Bell and Watch Tower.

A good picture of market square with the talk St. Michael’s Church dual purpose Bell and Watch Tower.

Another picture of Market Square

Another picture of Market Square

The city has some wonderful fountains—they include St. Michael's fountain on the Market Square, the bear's fountain and the doctor's fountain.

Bear Fountain

Bear Fountain

Overlooking the town is the Landshut Castle ruins.  It was first built in 1277 but was ruined by fire in 1692.  On an AmaWaterways cruise, some like to hike up to the ruins for great views of the area.

Landshut Castle

Landshut Castle

Bernkastel is located in the middle of the Mosel wine-producing region.  This area has been producing wine for over 500 years.  You will get to experience a guided walking tour through the old town center and a winery visit to sample several different regional vintages are scheduled for this portion of your cruise if you go on an AmaWaterways cruise.

Bernkastel is a good walking town

Bernkastel is a good walking town

Zell is famous for its white wine zellerschwartzkatz (Zell’s black cat).  It is a small town of about 4,300 people. It has an interesting market square and the town hall has a wine museum.  It was once a walled city but not much of the old walls remain.

The really great draw of this village is the story of Zell’s Black Cat Wine.

According to legend, a large quantity of local wine was being stored in barrels in a regional cellar.  When people approached, a black cat jumped on the barrel from Zell and started hissing to protect its contents.  Seeing the hissing, caused the wine merchants to believe the wine from Zell was special and better quality than the other wines stored in the wine cellar building.  Today the black cat is the symbol of this town.

AmaWaterways has an exclusive wine festival celebration in Zell.  The local children, dressed up like black cats, provide a performance that everyone who has visited Zell on AmaWaterways will remember.  I just recently heard Kristin Karst, one of the co-owners of AmaWaterways, describe how special and unique this visit and performance is during a webinar—it instantly brought back great memories of this port stop.

The children dressed up as black cats in Zell

The children dressed up as black cats in Zell

Cochem, Germany, on the Mosel River, is a former walled city.  It has a population of about 5,800 and is a traditional old German town.  The town has many fine buildings, quaint cottages, guild houses, and winding cobblestone streets. The town square, lined with half-timbered houses, is a wonderful, scenic area of this small town. 

Town Hall in Cochem

Town Hall in Cochem

St. George Fountain—he is cutting his cloak in half to give to aid the other person on this sculpture on top of the fountain.

St. George Fountain—he is cutting his cloak in half to give to aid the other person on this sculpture on top of the fountain.

The old hotel in Cochem

The old hotel in Cochem

In Cochem, if you go on an AmaWaterways cruise, you will enjoy a guided tour of Cochem that takes you to the spectacular hilltop Reichsburg Castle (also known as Cochem Castle but the correct name is Schloss Reichsburg).  It has fantastic views of the river valley below.  Touring inside the castle is great! 

Reichsburg Castle high on the hill over Cochem hi

Reichsburg Castle high on the hill over Cochem hi

The mural on the tower of the castle

The mural on the tower of the castle

Interesting architecture in the castle

Interesting architecture in the castle

Picture41.jpg

On an AmaWaterways tour of the castle

Knight armor—the big guy is 7 feet tall!

Knight armor—the big guy is 7 feet tall!

Berg Eltz is a beautifully preserved castle, with towers, half-timbered walls, and it is seemingly in the middle of nowhere—Anne and I hiked in 3 miles from the Mosel River town of Moselkern in early March one year to visit.  The family who owns this castle still lives here, and has done so for 850 years in their ancestral home.  

Entrance to Burg Eltz

Entrance to Burg Eltz

There are 2 places to visit here—the Treasury (pictures allowed) with a great display of precious items and tour of select rooms (no pictures) which takes about an hour or less.

Some of the many items on display in the treasury in Berg Eltz

Some of the many items on display in the treasury in Berg Eltz

 3 families owned this castle and each has built separate wings.  The tour includes an entrance way decorated with weapons, various gathering rooms, bedrooms and the kitchen—all very authentic and used by the families for over 33 generations.  Perhaps the most famous room of the castle, is the Knight’s room, where the 3 different families met to celebrate and work our any conflicts that might arise.  It is famous for the wall decorations, which served as a reminder to the 3 families about cooperation—a jester mask (representing freedom of speech) and a large rose (representing a code of silence—items discussed in the room need to stay there).

The entrance to the courtyard of Berg Eltz

The entrance to the courtyard of Berg Eltz

Koblenz is located at the confluence of the Moselle and Rhine Rivers. It is a great base to explore parts of nearby castles and quaint towns—we used it as a base of operations and enjoyed it very much.

Key sights in and near Koblenz, include Deutsches Eck, Lahneck Castle, Stolzenfels Castle, Ehrenbreitstein Fortress and the Electoral Palace.

Deutsches Eck—German Corner.  The statue is of Kaiser Wilhelm I who unified Germany in 1871

Deutsches Eck—German Corner. The statue is of Kaiser Wilhelm I who unified Germany in 1871

We stayed in a wonderful little hotel and this square was the view out of our room.

We stayed in a wonderful little hotel and this square was the view out of our room.

Electoral Palace of Koblentz

Electoral Palace of Koblentz

Ehrenbreitstein Fortress

Ehrenbreitstein Fortress

My Final Thoughts

What a great adventure—the Moselle River—just another reason we love the Old World of Europe so much!  We hope you enjoyed these pictures as much as we enjoyed seeing them during our travels.

We are travel experts, ocean and river cruise specialists, and Europe destination experts.  We have first-hand knowledge of almost anywhere you want to visit in Europe.  We know our products and the vendors who sell them to you.  We have designed special tours for dozens of clients, led several and will continue to find just the right vacation that will exceed your expectations.

When you are spending your hard-earned money for a vacation, you want an advisor who can match you with the right trip.  You want someone who will understand your expectations and fuel your anticipation (or excitement) to get you the best possible trip experience.  And, you want someone who can help you with the decision making process.  We think we have all these qualities.

Whatever your Dream Destinations are, we are here to help you get the best possible vacation based on what is important to you!  We will provide you high quality, expertly planned travel.  Please give me a call 713-397-0188 (Hank) or email me at hschrader@dreamdestinations.com.  We want to help you:  Savor life…make memories…Visit Dream Destinations!  Your journey begins here!

Hank Schrader.JPG

HANK is a certified Western European Destination Specialist (DS) who has been traveling to Europe for 49+ years.  He is also an Accredited Cruise Counselor (ACC), conferred by the Cruise Line International Association (CLIA).  This recognized expert in cruise and leisure travel is a retired Army Officer, and taught World Geography for 8 years.  He is a `71 graduate of West Point and has earned 2 master’s degrees.  His other Certifications:

  • AmaWaterways River Cruise Specialist

  • Viking River Cruise Specialist

  • Scenic River Cruise Specialist

  • Emerald Waterways Specialist

  • Avalon Waterways Specialist

  • Brit Agent